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| Clear air, sparkling sea and a fabulous view from the tip of Ynys Llanddwyn |
We are sitting outside the Bridge Inn, Menai Bridge, in wonderful warm evening sunlight, just having enjoyed a meal of freshly battered cod and chips with a tasty homemade tartare sauce.
It has been a glorious stolen summer day, a break in a few busy days of work at home. We had looked at the promising weather forecast last night and decided to just up and go early this morning, preparing a picnic lunch and driving to Anglesey.
It was cloudy when we left but the sky continued clearing all the way. By the time we park up by the RSPB centre near South Stack mid morning the sky is a clear, cloudless blue and the air warm despite a breeze from the north east.
Last time we were here, in May, the cliffs were full of nesting Guillemots, Razorbills and a few Puffins but now the cliff face is empty just spattered with white guano and only a few gulls and guillemots scattered around. Whilst viewing from the RSPB Ellin’s Tower we spot a single Puffin out on the sea and a pair of red beaked Choughs on the cliffs nearby.
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| Guillemots nesting on the cliffs near South Stack during May |
We stroll along the cliff edge, enjoying the sunshine, air and clear sparkling waters below. The vegetation has changed from May’s bright spring flowers to drying summer grasses and the bright purples and pinks of different varieties of heather scattered over the hillside.
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| A comparison between the cliffs near South Stack now and in May (below). |
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| The vegetation in May |
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| Some of the many varieties of heather mixed in with some gorse. |
We drove south passing through Aberffrew and parked up in the Newborough Forest Car Park adjoining the beach at Llanddwyn Bay. This area is very busy, a popular holiday destination, it is school holiday time and everyone is taking advantage of the good weather. Down on the beach, the tide is on its way out, but it must have been a high noon time tide as the wet sand indicates a high watermark. The skies out over the mountains on the mainland and the Lleyn peninsula are still quite cloudy, the higher mountains wreathed in mist but here the sky is blue and the sun sparkling on the water out in the bay. Once we are away from the car park area on the beach the crowds lessen and there are only a few walkers passing by.
The wet sands are littered with crunchy shells, sparkling pebbles and various species of jellyfish, one huge one, lying on its side, a bulk of whitish jelly like flesh with many pink tinged tentacles dangling from the main body which is partially hidden by the parachute like canopy covering the body. As we approach the island of Ynys Llanddwyn it is clear that the tide was high enough earlier to cut the island off from the mainland, the sands between here and the dunes at the edge of the forest very wet from the now fast receding sea.
The wet sands are littered with crunchy shells, sparkling pebbles and various species of jellyfish, one huge one, lying on its side, a bulk of whitish jelly like flesh with many pink tinged tentacles dangling from the main body which is partially hidden by the parachute like canopy covering the body. As we approach the island of Ynys Llanddwyn it is clear that the tide was high enough earlier to cut the island off from the mainland, the sands between here and the dunes at the edge of the forest very wet from the now fast receding sea.
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| One of the strange, igneous rock extrusions on the beach near Llanddwyn Island |
The island present a totally different appearance to the way it was during our last visit in May. All the bluebells and short grasses have been replaced by clumps of heather and tall yellowing grasses, waving gently in the wind, interspersed with oxeye daisies, common knapweed and the deep blues of tufted vetch. There are bright yellow stands of yellow ragwort, which, on looking closely, are covered with the yellow and black striped caterpillars of the cinnabar moth, . Scattered around are large gatherings of rosebay willow herb, their stems caught by the breeze, waving in unison against the blue sky and sea.
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| Looking back towards Newborough Strand from Llanddwyn Island |
Out on one of the rocky islets scattered off shore a large Atlantic grey seal basks in the sun, a couple of lesser black backed gulls nearby observe curiously. As we approach the western tip of the island, past the remains of the church of St. Dwynwen, the area is a mass of wild flowers. This Church used to be one of the most important pilgrimage sites on Anglesey, in 1535 nine tenths of its income came from donations made by pilgrims, but the Henry VIII split with the Catholic Church and put an end to pilgrimages and the Church’s main source of income. Legend has it that Dwynwen was a King’s daughter who, after an unhappy love affair, became a nun, living on Llanddwyn island and had an enchanted well that could tell the fortunes of lovesick travellers.
Past the ruins of the Church we come in sight of the rocky islands off the north western tip, the farthest one home to many cormorants. They stand upright, black silhouettes against the dazzling sea.
The view from the old lighthouse at the end of the island is superb, the panorama of Snowdonia, the peaks now clearing of cloud, sweeping down to the mountains of the Lleyn Peninsula. I have a feeling of joyous exaltation, of being alive at this beautiful spot overlooking the sandy coves, rocky headlands and sparkling clear blue green sea, sea birds gliding overhead against the deep blue sky and the beauty of the scene.
We stroll back past the old Pilot’s cottages and sit for a while just drinking in the beauty of the afternoon before regretfully heading back towards the car along the beach, now a vast expanse of flat, clean, firm sand, the sea a good distance out.
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| Grasses waving gently in the breeze near the ruins of St. Dwynwen's Church |
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| Looking towards Snowdonia |
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| The view near the old Pilot's cottages |
Back at the car around 17.30 we decide to find somewhere to eat, to extend our day out and hopefully enjoy another hour or so of the warm sunshine before heading for home. I drive along the road towards Llanfair PG and cross under the A55 towards Menai Bridge. Here there are good views of the two bridges and the Menai Straits from lay-bys on the road and I stop to capture the view before driving on. As we head towards the old suspension bridge at Menai Bridge, the Bridge Inn is perfectly placed on the roundabout just in front of us, people sitting outside at tables and enjoying a drink. Food is available and it looks like just the spot for us. I have to go around bait to find a parking spot, eventually going back around the roundabout and parking up in front of the picturesque St. Mary’s Church nearby. We ordered our meal and sat in the sun, enjoying the ambiance of the day.
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| Menai Bridge, Anglesey |
